Trip Reviews: Madagascar

In Seeing lemurs in the wild was a bucket list experience for me.  Our trip to Madagascar was all that I could have hoped, and that was because Ralph was amazing at planning and dealing with unexpected difficulties.  With 8 of us in the group, with different capabilities and limitations, Ralph managed to accommodate all of our needs and wishes, frequently on the fly.  In my case, a bad back limited my mobility at times, but Ralph always had  options for me, so that I could get the most out of the adventure.  Ralph, knowing that I was a birder, arranged for me to have a private morning pirogue trip with a local bird expert.  It was a wonderful, relaxing, and fun time, especially since I was able to spot many endemic species.

Starting with our city tour of Tana in WWII vintage Citroens, we experienced life in this, sadly, very poor country.  In spite of the poverty, the Malagasy people were lovely, friendly, and welcoming. The camp at Mangabe and the work with the NGO trying to bring back the rain forest and protect endangered species was especially gratifying.  

But, the wildlife - lemurs, golden mantella frogs, giraffe-necked weevils, chameleons, spiders, etc - were the stars of the trip.  Especially at Sakatia Be, where dozens of black lemurs arrived every evening to gorge on mangos in a tree right at the lodge.  They were not fearful of the humans watching them and allowed us to take hundreds of wonderful photos from a distance of less than 3 meters.  Especially charming were the mother lemurs with a baby clutching them tightly as they moved from branch-to-branch effortlessly.

We give Ralph Pannell and Aqua-Firma the highest recommendation possible.  Aside from being incredibly flexible, Ralph is knowledgeable about Madagascar, incredibly personable, and quite witty in a Monty Python kind of way… all in all a delight to spend time with.
We are already thinking about our next Aqua-Firma adventure, probably Svalbard.

(David and Ceci, Va. USA)


We had a great time on the Whale Shark Research tour, with a few extra days tagged on at the end by Ralph for some diving and relaxation at another hotel.
 
The whole trip was extremely well organised and planned - Ralph's experience in the region is very evident.  The accommodation was really good value and comfortable, with friendly staff, good food and amazing lemur action as they regularly came from the nearby forest to raid our mango trees!  Interspersing the marine search for large sightings - whale sharks, mobula rays, various dolphins, turtles and pilot whales all dutifully showed up - we really enjoyed the land-based activities.  The day trip to the forest for sightings of chameleons, lizards, snakes, lemurs, mouse lemurs, and many other species was fun, and the long paddle in the pirogue at least helped us believe we were working off the substantial meals...  Although happily the paddling was entirely voluntary!
 
The overnight stay on the wonderful Nosy Iranja was another highlight. A stunning setting right on the beach, and time to spend in the local village made this really special.  Early morning coffee while watching the village come to life, pirogues being repaired, and the children heading off for school was maybe the fondest memory of the trip.
 
The icing on the cake was the sudden news of a passing pod of orcas in the Mozambique channel.  Stella and the other researchers were hardly able to contain their excitement and after a pretty fast trip out to the location we were able to enjoy a sighting we definitely hadn't expected!
 
Madagascar is clearly a fairly unpredictable destination - road travel, and what you see, is interesting and memorable.  The undeveloped nature of the infrastructure brings issues. The dive outfit we used in our second phase was excellent, and I was thankful I'd left it down to Ralph as it was clearly chosen with the same high standards he applied to every aspect of the main trip.  
 
All of the group on this trip were approachable, curious, adventurous people, and they made the entire trip much more fun!  That's a very important factor in why we've done two trips with Aqua Firma and expect to do more.  The expertise, advice and helpfulness of the whole team is a huge asset when you're thinking of this type of travel.

(John & Sue Bennett, UK)
 

The very detailed programme description and the detailed information about the trip were a great help in our preparations. The accommodation, the food and the behaviour of the staff were perfect. You [Ralph Pannell] guided us through the very interesting and varied programme with enthusiasm, helpfulness and competence. I gained an instructive and useful insight into Stella Diamant's research work. I felt very comfortable as the tour group was small and interested and we were shielded from mass tourism. Personally, I would have liked to spend more time in the Lokobe forest and learn more about your experiences with forest conservation projects. 

It was a great week, which I am happy to recommend and I can well imagine travelling with Aqua-Firma again.
 
Best regards,

(Max, Switzerland)
 

Thank you Ralph for everything. ... was a wonderful trip. Great memories. Till we meet again.

(Debra Scheys, Michigan, USA)
 

The West - In Search of Fossa, Tsingy, Baobabs and Dancing Lemurs
This trip was our first with Aqua-Firma and our first time to Madagascar.  The novelty of our surroundings - from the iconic baobabs at sunset to the dramatic formations of the tsingy plateau, coupled with the intimacy of a small group experience left us with indelible memories of the trip of a lifetime.  It certainly helped that we were able to see much in the way of wildlife - including the fossa and at least seven different species of lemur.  But the memories of this week are infused with a familiarity uncharacteristic of being a stranger in a foreign land.  Ralph seems to have been born for the role of host and guide, imparting information and humor in equal doses, and handling situations both planned and unforeseen with customary aplomb.  

The Rainforest - Lemurs, Golden Frogs and New Rainforest Reserve
The uniqueness of this trip, located off the main tourist circuit and with a focus on local community engagement was what initially attracted us to Aqua-Firma over other companies providing tours in Madagascar.  We were impressed by the financial support that Aqua-Firma had provided to help protect the area and to promote a more sustainable path forward, and we wanted to be a part of it.  We are so glad we did.  We had a truly special week in the Mangabe reserve, meeting the community members and having them show us their village and the rainforest surrounding it.  We saw an abundance of wildlife, including a majority of the ten species of lemur that are present and a wonderful variety of birds, chameleons, insects and amphibians, including the stunningly beautiful golden mantella frog.  As advertised, our trip did truly have the feel of a "pioneering conservation adventure," and we enjoyed the camaraderie of the hosts and participants as much as the spectacular scenery and wildlife. 

Whale Shark Research - Islands, Marine Life & Lemurs
 It's difficult to know where to begin to describe this trip.  As the title suggests, whale shark research is a central focus, and one that certainly captured our attention.  The experience of swimming with these gentle giants is impossible to fully express in words, but "marvelous" and "awesome" provide a hint; being on the boat with the scientist who studies the sharks, sharing meals with the project members and learning about their work while contributing to it adds another dimension to the experience entirely.  And this is only a portion of what the week had to offer.  Snorkeling in pristine waters over colorful coral reefs, watching humpback whales and their calves breach, camping on a secluded island and hiking to see lemurs, flying foxes, chameleons and geckos were also somehow fitted into the week's activities.  This was our third trip with Aqua-Firma and the most varied in terms of experiences.  Relative to other group members on our trip (some of whom have been traveling with the company for over a decade) we were relative newcomers; we understand, however, why so many return.  Ralph does an excellent job of providing special touches throughout an already bountiful itinerary and the result is extremely gratifying.

(Chrissy & John, US)


What a trip! Once again Aqua-Firma have delivered the experience of a life-time. Working alongside Stella Diamant of the Madagascar whaleshark project, Ralph led an action-packed trip that included multiple snorkelling encounters with whalesharks, encounters with humpback and omura's whales from the boat, swimmming with turtles on the house reef just in front of our stunning lodge, trips to beautiful remote islands and marine parks and an exciting trek through a national park to see the lemurs, birds and reptiles endemic to the region. An amazing week full of unforgettable experiences. Thank you so much. 

(Susanna, UK)


I cannot thank Aqua-Firma enough for organising one of the most memorable trips I've been on. Madagascar provided the perfect mix of abundant wildlife, conservation in action, warm seas and idyllic beaches.

I joined both of the weeks offered by Aqua-Firma, the first of which was spent inland exploring the incredible biodiversity of the rainforests. Camping well off the beaten track offered a unique experience, we were fully immersed in the rich wildlife of the region and also gained a valuable insight into the challenges of village life and the hard balancing act for local communities at the front line of conservation management. The sheer variety of flora and fauna here is staggering - scurrying through the dense forest, tracking Indri with their melodic calls, was a particular highlight for me.

We followed this with a blissful week of sunny days snorkelling alongside magnificent whale sharks. Nothing can prepare you for your first time swimming with these gentle giants - a truly magical experience. Every day we went out on the boat we were lucky enough to swim with several individuals and that's in addition to dolphins, mobula rays, turtles and watching breaching Humpbacks. The nearby islands were stunning: picture-perfect white sandy beaches surrounded by gin-clear waters bursting with life...pure paradise!
 
Ralph was an excellent leader and looked after the group brilliantly, always on hand to help with any situation and a fountain of knowledge. Having Simon's expertise on tap and hearing the latest research insights on whale sharks was also invaluable. It's both Ralph and Simon that really make these trips superb: their enthusiasm and dedication are inspiring and their clear excitement when wildlife spotting is a pleasure to observe.

Be prepared for an action-packed schedule that's been perfectly designed to immerse yourself in all that Madagascar has to offer. There were some long days and at times I was pushed slightly outside of my comfort zone but I wouldn't change a thing. I cannot recommend both parts of this trip highly enough. Thank you once again for such a wonderful experience.

(Amelia Hampton, London)


An immersion in some of the best biodiversity on earth, time in Madagascar is well worth the effort.  I combined both Aqua-Firma trips to Madagascar for a taste of trying to protect a forest and a sea life brimming with wow factor variety.  First the pioneering conservation adventure: you need to be hearty, fit and open.  The reward is waking up to the Madagascar cuckoo and the lyrical singing of the Indri indri.  We were up and out every day and evenings (with the exception of one rainy evening when we decided to sleep early), exploring, finding lemurs, chameleons, birds galore, frogs and other beasts.  It was magic for a wildlife buff like myself.  You understand the stillness of this place when you visit Andasibe-Mantadia National Park - a stunning primary forest - where we were privileged to spend time watching at close distance the illusive fossa.  Bliss.

Madagascar is a tough and extremely challenged country.  You need to be able to want to see how people in this country live - and survive - despite the hardships.  We transferred from the forest to the sea and the next adventure.  Another wow, double wow experience.  Comfortable lodge, enthusiastic and knowledgeable scientists on board to find those whale sharks (we did) and much more - dolphins (three species), humpbacks, rays, turtles, more lemurs, geckos... Very comfortable lodge, good food, lovely staff and a spa - and we were active all day!

Aqua-Firma takes good care of you, is meticulous about arrangements even in the most challenging of places, and provides knowledgeable and caring shepherding from place to place.  This is my third trip with them, and they deliver an approach to seeing the world that enables you to step out of your comfort zone and feel secure.  If you have ever thought about going to Madagascar, do it now.  I suggest too, that you do it with Aqua-Firma.

(Professor Betsy Stanko OBE, London)


This excursion into Madagascar was divided into two parts -  the forest exploration which was well off the tourist routes, and then the second week looking for whale sharks…

The first week was very innovative. We stayed in the forest with a community linked to an NGO who were opening the area to small scale eco-tourism. The forest walks, although quite strenuous at times, proved just how rich in wildlife the area is.  We saw numerous lemurs, and the local guides were incredible at finding chameleons, spiders, endangered frogs, snakes and a variety of other forest dwellers for us to marvel over.  Paths had been cut through the forest to make our explorations easier.  The community is well off the tourist routes and I got a feeling that I was experiencing a real part of Madagascar seldom seen .  My special thanks go to them for my excellent vegetarian food. We visited 2 other forested areas and I shall never forget the wonder of spending a good half hour watching a Fosa - what an amazing experience.

In contrast we had an excellent week looking for, finding and swimming with whale sharks.  We stayed in a very comfortable tourist encampment, and I enjoyed having lemurs jumping over the roof of my hut in the early morning.

An excellent holiday all round.  Thank you.

(Sally Dean, UK)


My Madagascar trip was amazing, I really enjoyed the balance of forest project and more basic conditions, and then the beaches, whale sharks and luxury of the lodge. The shear amount of wildlife we saw was incredible, made more enjoyable by being in a small group and the enthusiasm of the guides. Not to mention Ralph who is like a child in a sweet shop. The forest project is an excellent addition and has a lot of potential. The camp although basic was comfortable, with a shower! Didn't expect that. Toilet facilities and hand washing needs to be tweaked a little, but otherwise it was perfect. The guides, NGO's and camp staff were all lovely. I really enjoyed the forest walks and boat trips but others may find the walking challenging. Visiting the established park was good and the Fosa sighting was a top highlight of the trip for me.

Hotel in Tana was great, good location even though traffic was pretty bad, good breakfast and very comfortable.

The whale sharks were superb as usual and the boat organised well. I enjoyed all the activities, diving and Island trips all fitted nicely to make a week of lots of great experiences.

All in all an excellent trip!

(Serena, Wales)


Hi Ralph and all at Aqua-Firma

I am emailing today on my return from the Lemurs, Golden Frogs & New Rainforest Reserve - Pioneering Conservation Adventure October 2017.

Five Star Service, Warm and Friendly Hospitality, a High Standard of Accommodation and Meals beside a Once in a Life Time Adventure packed with Wildlife in a great location seen by few to explore to your hearts content.  Jungles are my passion and I can highly recommend this expedition experience to all, so take the leap and enjoy as I did.

(Samantha Johnson, UK)
 

Nature is often unpredictable so I'm always a little anxious about looking forward to encounters in case the wildlife doesn't show up. However, this trip brought it in heaps and then some! I was bowled over by the quality of the experiences with the whale sharks in the water and impressed with the professionalism and passion ... Add to this the chance to meet the whole host of prosimian and reptilian inhabitants of the island and I was truly astounded with how much nature we managed to cram into the week.

Also worth a mention is the "base" … which was absolutely perfect. Rustic, but incredibly well maintained and staffed by incredibly personable and happy people.

The trip was a true joy and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to anyone who wanted to surround themselves with the best of Madagascar.

(Aaron, London, UK)


Dear Ralph: We spent three impressive and interesting weeks on Nosy Sakatia and the surrounding area. I was able to take wonderful and beautiful memories with me. Nosy Tanikely in particular - we were there twice before our week together for four hours each time -, the dolphin moments, the mobula rays and of course the few and brief whale shark encounters were something special for me. We also had countless less spectacular encounters, e.g. with seven different species of nudibranchs, mudskippers and fiddler crabs in the mangrove area, a very curious group of batfish and heniochus (bannerfish), a huge school of barracudas (probably over 1000 individuals) and an even much bigger school of yellow snappers, as if the whole sea had been covered in them.

I really enjoyed the Aqua-Firma Week. Getting your detailed itinerary was a great help for my preparation and nourished my delightful anticipation. The program was varied and diverse, and the execution was reliable and professional. You were a skillful, very personable and trustworthy leader. I particularly appreciated the various discussions with you and, of course, Stella, who complemented the management team perfectly.

Thank you very much again and I hope to meet you again.

(Michael, Switzerland)


'It was indeed an unforgettable trip that you guys put together. Great itinerary and Ralph is such a great host'

(Klaus Metzger, Germany)

 

  • Female Black Lemur, Nosy Tanikely - Dr Simon Pierce
  • Whale Shark Researcher, Nosy Be - Dr Simon Pierce
  • Our Camp overlooking stunning white sand beaches of Nosy Iranja, Madagascar
  • Female Fossa, Mantadia National Park - Ralph Pannell
  • Whale Shark with Remora, Nosy Be - Ralph Pannell
  • Golden Mantella Frog, Mangabe Reserve - Ralph Pannell
  • Mangabe River, Madagascar - Ralph Pannell
  • Turtle over Seagrass Beds, Nosy Be - Ralph Pannell
  • Tree Lizard, Mangabe Reserve - Ralph Pannell

Madagascar

  • Snorkeling with AQUA-FIRMA's Whale Shark Research Team in Madagascar - Ralph Pannell
  • Tree Gecko, Nosy Kombe - Dr Simon Pierce
  • Nosy Be Sportive Lemur, Lokobe Forest - Ralph Pannell
  • Swimming with Whale Shark Aqua-Firma / MMF Research Team in Madagascar. Photo: Dr Simon Pierce
  • Female Chameleon, Mangabe Reserve
  • Giraffe Necked Weevil, Mantadia National Park - Ralph Pannell
  • Indri Lemur, Andasibe - Ralph Pannell
  • Chameleon, Lokobe Forest - Ralph Pannell
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